Exploring the French Riviera: A Relaxed Coastal Journey Beyond St Tropez and Cannes
- Anika Pannu
- 4 days ago
- 9 min read
The French Riviera, with its azure waters and idyllic landscapes, often conjures up images of bustling hotspots like Nice, St Tropez, and Cannes. But there’s so much more to this dreamy coastline - quieter corners that invite you to slow down, savour local flavours, and soak in the scenery. We spent seven days exploring this beautiful region, taking our time to truly embrace its relaxed pace and charm. Without a car and with Villefranche-sur-Mer as our base, we quite easily travelled through charming towns that delighted both the little ones and us alike. Here’s my guide to four must-see gems on the French Riviera.
Villefranche-sur-Mer: The Perfect Base for Exploring the French Riviera
If, like me, you have a soft spot for postcard-perfect villages adorned with pastel houses - extra points if they gracefully cascade towards crescent-shaped bays - then Villefranche-sur-Mer will steal your heart. This enchanting town is the ideal starting point for your Riviera escape. Compact yet bursting with charm, it’s effortlessly picturesque and conveniently connected by train, allowing you to explore the surrounding towns without needing a car. Just a 30-minute drive from Nice Airport, Villefranche feels like a serene world apart, offering the perfect balance of accessibility and tranquillity.
For those travelling with little ones, Villefranche isn’t entirely stroller-friendly. The backstreets of the old town feature steep staircases that can pose a challenge. That said, alternative routes with wider steps make navigating with a stroller manageable, and this minor inconvenience didn’t detract from our experience in the slightest.
Where to Stay
For affordable mid-luxury, consider staying at Welcome Hotel. This waterfront gem offers stunning views of the bay and is just steps from the town’s charming streets and restaurants. Alternatively, Airbnb has a fantastic range of options in Villefranche-sur-Mer, from cosy apartments to spacious villas. I opted for an Airbnb during my stay, as having a kitchen made it so much more convenient for preparing meals for the twins. It was the perfect balance of comfort and practicality, allowing us to enjoy a relaxed and flexible holiday.
What to Do
Stroll the Old Town: Lose yourself in the maze of cobblestone lanes, framed by vibrant facades and dotted with charming boutiques and cafés. Wandering these streets quickly became my favourite activity - there’s a quiet magic here, even in the height of the season. With every turn, there’s something new to capture, from weathered shutters to sun-drenched alleys, making it a dream for photography enthusiasts.
Visit Chapelle Saint-Pierre: Step into this small yet historic chapel, adorned with striking murals by Jean Cocteau. Not only is it a treasure trove of art and history, but it’s also a cool and peaceful retreat from the Riviera’s midday sun.
Relax at Plage des Marinières: This sweeping family-friendly beach offers crystal-clear waters perfect for a refreshing swim or simply basking on the soft sands. It’s an ideal spot to unwind, whether you’re paddling with little ones or indulging in a good book.
Take a Sunset Walk to Point de Vue:Â As the day winds down, wander towards Point de Vue for a golden-hour panorama of the bay. The tranquil waters, kissed by the setting sun, create a view so mesmerising it feels like you're in a real-life painting.
Where to Eat and Drink
La Mère Germaine: A Riviera classic, this iconic waterfront restaurant serves up fresh, exquisitely prepared seafood. Arrive at 7 pm to secure a table right by the water and enjoy uninterrupted views of the harbour.
Les Garçons: A lively bistro tucked away in the heart of the old town. Known for its creative, seasonal menu, this spot offers a relaxed vibe and dishes that celebrate local ingredients. Opt for a terrace seat in the evening to experience the quiet charm of the town once the day crowds have gone.
La Belle Étoile: A cosy gem that captures the essence of Provençal dining. With its warm atmosphere and expertly crafted dishes, it’s perfect for a leisurely evening meal. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during the busy summer months.
Èze: A Medieval Hilltop Escape
The second town we explored during our French Riviera escape was Èze, a destination that feels straight out of a fairy tale. Perched high above the Mediterranean, this enchanting village is a labyrinth of winding stone paths, flower-filled courtyards, and jaw-dropping vistas. It’s a must-visit for its storybook charm and breathtaking panoramic views.
Reaching Èze can be a bit tricky, but we found the easiest option was a short Uber ride directly to the village entrance. This saved us from the hassle of navigating the bus or train. While the train to Èze-sur-Mer is an option, it leaves you at the base of the village, requiring a strenuous uphill climb with countless steps to reach the top - don’t make that mistake!
We planned our visit for the evening, perfectly timed to catch the sunset. Spending 3–4 hours in the village was more than enough to soak in its charm, explore the sights, and enjoy a relaxed pace.
Èze is not stroller-friendly, as its steep, cobblestone paths and numerous staircases require a bit of mobility. But the effort is absolutely worth it. Walking through the village feels like stepping back in time, with every corner offering postcard-worthy views.
What to Do:
Explore the Jardin Exotique: Perched at the very top of Èze, the Jardin Exotique is a must-see attraction that showcases an incredible array of cacti, succulents, and Mediterranean flora. But the true highlight is its unparalleled panoramic views. From this clifftop garden, you can gaze out over the sparkling Mediterranean, with vistas stretching as far as Saint-Tropez on a clear day. The garden also features sculptures and shaded spots, making it an idyllic retreat for those seeking a moment of calm amidst nature's beauty. We didn't have to buy tickets in advance, but do check their website.
Wander Through Èze Village: Step back in time as you meander through Èze's cobbled streets, lined with charming stone houses and blooming bougainvillea. The village is home to an array of art galleries and boutique shops, where you can find everything from handmade jewellery to locally crafted perfumes.
Where to Eat and Drink:
La Chèvre d’Or: This Michelin-starred gem is not just a meal but an experience. Offering exceptional cuisine alongside panoramic views of the Mediterranean, it’s a place to savour every bite. Tip: Book a table on the terrace for a truly unforgettable dining experience, and don’t forget to dress the part—this is fine dining at its best.
Le Nid d’Aigle: A charming, casual alternative in Èze, this spot specialises in Provençal flavours in a relaxed setting. Tip: Arrive early if you want a table outdoors, as it fills up quickly during lunch hours, especially in high season. The local rosé pairs beautifully with their signature dishes.
Deli’: Perfect for a quick bite or a relaxed meal, Deli’ offers delicious sandwiches, fresh salads, and pastries, making it a great option for a lighter meal. Its laid-back vibe is a lovely contrast to the grandeur of the village.
Menton: A Slice of Italy on the Riviera
Menton is one of the French Riviera’s most vibrant yet underrated gems, sitting just a stone's throw from Italy. The town bursts with colour, from its pastel buildings to the lush lemon groves, offering a feast for the eyes at every turn. With its blend of French and Italian influences, Menton has a relaxed charm that feels worlds away from the more tourist-heavy towns like Nice and Cannes. Whether you're visiting for a day or a longer stay, it’s a place that’s easy to fall in love with.
How to get to Menton
While you can easily reach Menton by train, we opted for a scenic Uber ride, which took about an hour from Villefranche-sur-Mer. The winding mountain roads offer incredible views, but can also lead to motion sickness, so keep this in mind if you're sensitive to winding paths. One of the girls did feel sick, so having an extra set of clothes handy is a smart move. Once you arrive, though, the charm of the town more than makes up for the journey.
What to do in Menton
Stroll through the Old Town:Â Wander the narrow, cobbled streets lined with colourful houses, hidden squares, and quaint cafes - truly my favourite thing to do.
Take the tourist train: A great way to explore the Old Town, especially for families. The train runs regularly throughout the day and offers a leisurely tour of the town. It’s a fun way for kids to take in the sights while giving you a break from walking. The ride lasts around 20-30 minutes, making it perfect for a quick overview of Menton’s charming streets and key landmarks.
Visit the Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange:Â Explore the baroque architecture and enjoy sweeping views of the town from the basilica. Tip - just behind it are the most beautiful, quaint streets that are practically empty.
Relax at the beach: Menton’s beach, located near the Old Town, is family-friendly and perfect for a swim or just lounging by the sea.
Walk to the Old Port:Â A peaceful spot to relax by the water, away from the more crowded areas.
Stroll along the Escaliers des Barrières: Descend to the beach for a lovely walk along the coastal path.
Head to Quai Impératrice Eugénie: A great place to enjoy a stunning sunset with panoramic views of the bay.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: A Peninsula Paradise
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a true jewel on the French Riviera, offering a sense of exclusivity and serenity that makes it the perfect escape. Situated just a short distance from Villefranche-sur-Mer, it’s easy to reach by foot, bus, or taxi. We decided to take a lovely walk from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, soaking in the views of the Mediterranean along the way. The walk is picturesque and offers a more intimate experience of the coastline. On the way back, we opted for the bus, which made it easier with the stroller.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat has a relaxed, upscale vibe. It’s a place where time seems to slow down, and you can easily unwind while taking in the natural beauty that surrounds you. The atmosphere is tranquil yet sophisticated, with quiet streets, impressive villas, and beautiful gardens. We spent several evenings here, and each night felt like a peaceful retreat - ideal for sunset walks along the water or enjoying a leisurely dinner by the beach.
What to Do:
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild: This opulent villa is a must-see, not only for its grand interiors but also for its meticulously designed gardens that offer stunning views over the Mediterranean. It’s a place to get lost in beauty and history. We also had lunch here, which was fantastic. Tip: Sit indoors in one of the lavish and opulent rooms.
Coastal Walks: The Sentier du Littoral, a coastal path, is perfect for a scenic and serene hike. The walk offers panoramic views of the sea and is ideal for anyone wanting to immerse themselves in nature while enjoying the peninsula’s quiet charm.
Paloma Beach: This chic beach club is a true haven for those seeking both relaxation and style. With crystal-clear waters and a laid-back yet refined atmosphere, it’s the perfect place to unwind, whether you’re taking a refreshing dip or basking in the sun. We had the most unforgettable meal here at sunset - more on that below. The kind of experience that stays with you long after. The breathtaking views, the delicious food, and the tranquil vibe made it one of those core memories that truly encapsulate the magic of the French Riviera.
Where to Eat and Drink:
Le Saint Jean:Â For a more intimate, local dining experience, Le Saint Jean is a cosy restaurant with a welcoming atmosphere. We sat on the patio and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of people dining as the sun set.
Paloma Beach Restaurant: This spot was hands down one of the best parts of our trip. Picture this: Mediterranean dishes served right on the beach, with pebbles under your feet and the waves gently crashing in the background. It’s the kind of place that just sticks with you.
The views were unreal, the food was amazing, and the vibe was so calm and peaceful. To top it all off, my littlest fell asleep in my arms to the sound of the water. I got to eat my meal with her snuggled against me, feeling her tiny heartbeat. It was one of those moments you never forget - core memory!
Dinner at Paloma Beach
To Sum Up
The French Riviera is so much more than the glitz and glam of Nice, St Tropez and Cannes. It’s a place where the simple joys of wandering cobblestone streets, savouring fresh seafood by the water, and watching the sun dip below the horizon create lasting memories. My slow-paced journey through Villefranche-sur-Mer, Èze, Menton, and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat showed me a softer, more intimate side of this iconic coastline - perfect for families, couples, or solo adventurers looking to escape the usual tourist frenzy.
This trip reminded me that travel doesn’t always have to be about ticking off famous sights. Sometimes, it’s about the little moments: dancing in the town squares with your little loves, watching the billowing laundry hanging from the windows, or sharing gelato on the beach.
The French Riviera has a way of slowing you down and drawing you into its endless beauty. So pack light, let go of itineraries, and let the Riviera show you its magic.